Bacteria and algae are large consumers of nitrates and phosphates. Encouraging algae growth can be done in either a refugium, algae turf scrubber or an algae reactor and they are each powerful methods of nutrient export.
Bacteria live on all the surfaces of the tank as well as in the water column. Rockwork in the tank provides a very large surface area for bacteria and some people therefore adds lots of rock to their tank. Sand beds, particularly deep sand beds can be an area of high density nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. Bacteria in the water column and on surfaces can be fed a carbon source to promote increasing bacteria numbers. The carbon source can be added directly to the water such as vodka, vinegar or sugar.
The carbon source can also be in a reactor via pellets. There are bacterial products to add biodiversity to the tank that can be added. And there are proprietary products that are designed to reduce nitrates and phosphate specifically. Additionally, there are ceramic medias that provide huge surface areas in their pore structure to allow for large populations of bacteria that significantly help reduce nitrates.
Protein skimmers remove some uneaten food, and some amount of nitrates and phosphates as well as bacteria in the skim mate. Skimmers also add oxygenation to the water, and also remove some organics. Excess phosphates can be removed through binding agents, such as GFO or lanthanum chloride. If nitrates are aggressively removed by any of the methods previously mentioned, then nitrate supplementation can help drive phosphates lower as well.
If nutrients are too high, coral calcification, growth, and color are all adversely effected and unwanted algae blooms are encouraged. If nutrients are too low, corals are likely to be overly pale and starving.
If nutrients are out of balance, the tank is vulnerable to a cyanobacteria bloom or other plagues. I manage nutrients with a Bubble King Mini Protein Skimmer, several liters of Siporax, a refugium lit by a Kessil H deep purple with fast growing Chaeto, a seven by sixteen inch filter sock changed out twice weekly, and ten to fifteen percent water changes weekly.
Adequate flow is an absolute necessity for coral health and ultimately color. There are no objective criteria that really well describe the necessary flow required. Adequate water movement around SPS coral significantly impacts their nutrient absorption and excretion. In terms of how much flow is enough, perhaps the best metaphor is that everyone loves a nice breeze but no one enjoys overly forceful winds.
Basically gentle polyp movement indicates minimally required flow. Exactly how much flow and polyp movement around SPS is not really known. More flow and more polyp movement are usually considered better but too much direct flow will strip tissue off the coral. There are a great deal of wonderful power heads with all kinds of innovative designs available as well as wave machines.
Ideally random flow with gyre movement of the water is ideal because it will help your SPS with both absorption and excretion of nutrients as well as keep detritus from settling. Curiously, unilateral flow as opposed to random flow often results in SPS colonies that grow similarly to a wind swept tree instead of in a more uniform, concentric shape. I previously used two Tunze power heads for added flow within the display.
SPS require lots of light. Fortunately, there are many choices to select from. Metal halides, t5s and LEDS, all can grow corals with beautiful colors.
Metal halides have been the gold standard. Often described as the best light for growing and coloring SPS. But metal halide bulbs require replacement, roughly annually and they give off lots of heat which usually requires a chiller to keep the tank from getting to warm.
Many choose to use t5 fixtures solely. T5 fixtures consistently produce good results and you can grow SPS with t5. LEDS have made an incredible impact on the hobby and are presumably the most popular choice for new reefers. An advantage to LEDS is that different lighting spectrums can be dialed in. Not all SPS will fluoresce dramatically but some corals will display vivid colors not seen under typical metal halide or t5 bulb light spectrums. Of course to get the pop, LEDs create somewhat of a Windex effect to the water, a very blue look.
The newer LED units have less and less of Windex effect but still provides dramatic pop or fluorescence. Given the various advantages and disadvantages of each light system, there are many reefers who choose some combination of metal halides, t5s or LEDS.
There will likely be arguments for some time to come about the best light system. Given the flexibility of dialing in light spectrums, the dramatic fluorescence visualized, and the absence of bulb replacement needs, it seems LEDS will simply continue to gain market share over their already market dominance.
I have a Giesemann fixture over my tank with three metal halides, Radium watt 20 k bulbs, and four ATI T5 blue plus 80 watt bulbs.
The metal halide Radiums are on from to , five hours. The quality of the artificial saltwater ultimately determines the success of a tank and thereby the colors that can be achieved in your SPS.
Not only do nitrates and phosphates need to be removed from city or well water but also chlorine and chloramines. Additionally, further contaminants and organic compounds will be removed. There are many salt manufacturers. Each seemingly has set a goal or criteria for their parameters and those are typically listed on the box.
There always seems to be ongoing debates about which is the best salt. I suggest that you review the parameters the various salt manufacturers list and determine what you would like to target. For many people, alkalinity is the most important parameter. I am not sure that it should be though. None of the manufacturers produce a salt with less than around 7. Some produce a product with alkalinity closer to 11 dKh. There are relatively easy ways to reduce newly made saltwater alkalinity, if desired.
Some people use the most inexpensive salt and others choose the most expensive salt. Choose a salt that is highly consistent with its quality control and mixes to your liking and demands to maximize your corals colors.
I have tried many different salts and truly all are very good. Beautiful vivid SPS corals in a reef tank are a result of many factors. Understanding seawater, water chemistry, being committed to observing livestock, managing water parameters in a very narrow stable range, regimented water testing, providing adequate flow and lighting, managing both input and export of nutrients, all are the building blocks.
Consistently beautiful, bright, colorful SPS colonies come from frags chosen from vividly colorful mother colonies that have lived in a reef tank for some time and demonstrated color stability and viability. Click here and become a ReefHacks Author — Share your knowledge with the community! We highlight the different issues common to saltwater and reef aquarium hobbyists, review the gear needed to help you decide if the latest product from your favorite brand is worth it or find alternatives and help you with other questions that you might have on the way to your successful reef tank.
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How to keep sps corals - Parameters and Testing. As a generalization I think it's safe to say that soft corals such GSP, xenia, colt, kenya tree, sacrophytons the leathers are the fastest growers. LPS such as Duncan, the Euphyllias are moderately fast grows under the right conditions where Chalice would probably considered a slow grower. Acropora or other SPS, under the right conditions Montipora and Pocillopora as well as Seriatopora hystrix are all considered some of the faster growing sps.
Corailline , Nov 18, Bustopher , Nov 18, Thank you so much for the response everyone. Log in. Install the app. Home Forums Aquarium Discussion Coral. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
How long does it take for frags to grow? Thread starter Jonathan Chia Start date Aug 2, Jonathan Chia Guest. I can't tell if these Coral are actually growing, but my alkinity dropped from 11 to 10 over the span of a week.
Is it safe to assume that since alkinity dropped that there is some consumption and that there is growth? Would softie growth cause alkinity to drop? I can visibly see those growing. Newjack Guest. You just stare and stare at it for days. Before you know it, the paint is dry, and the grass needs cutting. Bruce Spiegelman Supporting Member.
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